Hailing from the town of Cognac and the surrounding areas in western France, this potent potable is the finest of all brandies (see BRANDY). The Cognac region is divided into six APPELLATIONS, which radiate outward from the town of Cognac from the most to least desirable. They are Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. The higher desirability of the first two districts comes from their high-ACID grapes, made possible by chalky soil. Cognac is made primarily from TREBBIANO grapes (known in France as Ugni Blanc and Saint-Émilion) and double-distilled (see DISTILLATION) immediately after FERMENTATION. Freshly distilled Cognac is strong, sharp, and harsh and needs wood aging (usually in LIMOUSIN oak) to mellow it and enhance the aroma and flavor. Stars on a Cognac bottle’s label vary in meaning from producer to producer, although three stars usually indicate longer aging and therefore higher quality than two stars or one star. Older Cognacs are labeled V.S. (very superior), V.S.O.P. (very superior old pale), and V.V.S.O.P. (very, very superior old pale). A Cognac label can no longer legally claim more than 7 years aging. It has been difficult for authorities to accurately keep track of Cognacs aged longer than this, so they’ve limited what producers may claim. The label terms X.O., Extra, and Reserve usually indicate that a Cognac is the oldest put out by a producer. The term Fine Champagne on a Cognac label indicates that 60 percent of the grapes came from a superior grape-growing section of Cognac called Grande Champagne. A label designating Grande Fine Champagne proclaims that all the grapes for that Cognac came from that eminent area.