20 Questions for Michael Meagher, Sommelier at Sel de la Terre, Boston
Posted 05/01/2008 at 11:16 PM by Cathy
Interview by Vivian Ku, Guest Contributor
How did you become interested in wine?
I have always been interested in wine, it was never a mystery or taboo in my family to have a glass with dinner, but professionally, I never considered a career in wine until I spent a year in Adelaide, Australia pursuing a Master's degree in Gastronomy. Day trips to McLaren Vale or the Clare Valley became a weekly routine and soon I started to think that the wine world would be a really fun place to have a career.
Can you describe your pathway to becoming a sommelier?
My path is a bit more circuitous than some other sommeliers I know, but here's the short version. I graduated from Harvard with a degree in Sociology, decided against law school and applied to the Culinary Institute of America. After working as a chef for a few years, I realized that I loved cooking, but professionally it was wearing me down. So then I enrolled at the University of Adelaide in Australia in the Master's Program in Gastronomy. I returned to Boston, passed the Introductory Certification for the Court of Master Sommeliers and started working at Sel de la Terre and L'Espalier as a sommelier, eventually becoming the Assistant Beverage Director. I am currently pursuing the Advanced Certification with the Court of Master Sommeliers as well as the Diploma from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.
How many wines do you taste on average per day?
On a slow day, one. On a busy day where there is a distributor or wholesaler holding a portfolio tasting, probably around the area of 80-100. A normal day, between three and six.
Any interest in owning your own vineyard and winery one day?
It would be incredibly romantic to drop everything, move to California, France or Italy, buy a vineyard and make some great wines. The best part about this industry is that there are so many options available, but right now, I am loving what I am doing and the people I am working with.
What do you think is the most versatile wine?
That's a tough question. And as soon as I finish this answer, I'll want to change my mind! I think that for white wine, it would have to be Riesling from Alsace. It is always a wine that pairs well with lighter foods, but when you are having pork or chicken, maybe with a little bit of spice, it rises to the occasion with flavors you never noticed when you took that first sip. Plus it can age beautifully. For red wine, I will have to say Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Fish, meat, mushrooms, cheese...it can seamlessly tie in with a lot of different flavors.
Why do people tend to think that red wines are superior to whites?
One reason is complexity. Red wines by nature have more tactile sensations associated with them because of the tannins, pigments, alcohol, etc. White wines, in this country, tend to be served at a temperature that's way too cold. Cold mutes flavors on our palate, so a white wine that has complexity won't get a chance to show it off. Prestige factors in to the equation as well. The most expensive and age-worthy wines in the world are red wines. Plus, we are becoming more health conscious, and red wines have been proven to be better for your health than white wines.
What's your take on global warming's impact on the wine world?
Sadly, this is going to become a huge factor in our current conceptions of quality wine regions. Hot climates, like Spain, Southern France, Italy, California and Australia, might become too warm for consistent quality wine production. Regions like the Mosel in Germany and Champagne will experience warmer growing seasons and their grapes could lose some of the acidity that makes their wines so enjoyable. On the flip side, there are winemakers and wine companies that are buying land in England and Canada since the global warming might actually increase the ability of cold regions to make decent wine. I have had some English sparkling wine and, in all honesty, it isn't bad. Give them a few more degrees during the summer and they might start to produce some Champagne-quality bubbly!
What analogy do you use to describe the relationship between food and wine?
The best analogy I have heard about wine was from Fabrice Langlois at Château Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He was speaking about how they blend together grapes for their wines, and he believes that it was akin to an orchestra. Grenache was the violin section, Syrah was the brass, Mourvèdre was the percussion, and he continued this through all 13 grapes that are permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Some winemakers will only use a quartet, some a quintet, but at Beaucastel they incorporate the entire orchestra because it results in a more complex product. I believe that this applies to food and wine as well. Wine by itself can be wonderful and an experience unto itself, like the string section of an orchestra, but it is somewhat limited in terms of the notes it can play. Food can be soulful, powerful, and soothing, but again it is a limited production. It is the mindful pairing of food and wine together will create notes and flavors that can only be produced by a full orchestra. (That is not me saying that wine and food alone are not good, it's just purchasing a ticket for a different performance.)
What is your favorite food and wine combination?
Yikes! That changes frequently...but I always love Champagne and sushi. And braised rabbit with mushrooms and polenta with a Barbaresco.
What do you think is the most popular wine?
I think Cabernet is most popular because it is so familiar and consistent. It's a bit like the Starbucks phenomenon where we can get the same coffee anywhere in the world. Cabernet can be produced almost anywhere and you can find it at many different price points. Chardonnay fits this role as well.
What wine to you think is underrated?
German Rieslings are always kicked around because of the low-quality images of Blue Nun and Liebfraumilch. But the more German wine I taste, the more I want people to give them another chance. I realize that off-dry wines can be a bit strange to think of as "food wines" but they are truly wonderful.
Do you think people who weren't born with sharp taste buds can still aspire to be a sommelier? Is it innate or is it something to work toward?
ABSOLUTELY!!! No one is born with the ability to taste a wine and tell you where it is from. The best part about tasting, is that the more you do, the better you get at it. It comes from years of studying, being mindful about what you are tasting, and talking with other people in the wine industry. Open up your kitchen cabinet and smell all the spices you have, but think about what the smell is and let it burn itself into your memory. Actually stop and smell the roses. Think about how it smells. It's a really enjoyable exercise and it's a great way to learn.
Do you have any preference for New World versus Old World wines?
When I am having food I lean toward the Old World, because they tend to be subtler, more complex, and not as alcoholic. But I am definitely a fan of New World wines that are eschewing the high-alcohol, high-oak route and letting the fruit and terroir speak.
How do you decide which wines to sample?
I have some great sales reps that bring me a lot of good juice, but when I am off-duty, I tend to experiment with varietals I am not as familiar with or that I have read about recently.
Do you ever drink beer or cocktails?
Oh, yes. Beer always tastes so good after a day full of wine tasting. I am not as keen on modern cocktails, but I am a fan of the classics like a good Sazerac or Negroni.
What is the best way for people to try to learn more about wines without having to buy bottles and bottles of it?
There are so many great books and magazines out there that if you can find a particular writer or magazine who seems to give good ratings to wines that you enjoy, then stick with them and they'll introduce you to new things that you will most likely also enjoy. If you can find a few friends who are into wine, start up a tasting group. Meet once every month and have a theme in mind, say Italian wines under $25. Everyone can bring a bottle and some light snacks and you can discuss the wines and take notes for your own records. If you can get ten people involved, there will be ten different wines and ten different palates discussing what they taste.
Is there a person you especially admire within the wine industry? A farmer in Burgundy, say? Another sommelier?
There are so many tremendous role models that have helped me in the wine industry that it would be hard to single out one person. Certainly Erik Johnson and Erich Schliebe at L'Espalier have been amazing to work with. Shayn Bjornholm is a Master Sommelier who has given me a lot of confidence and guidance in terms of my education and on staying focused. Adam Chase, a Master of Wine Candidate and my WSET instructor, has also been a tremendous resource for me here in Boston
Do you travel a lot for the job?
Not as much as I would like! But I try to take at least a week a year and visit a new wine region. Fortunately for me, grapes seem to grow best in beautiful locations!
Describe your experience interacting with customers on a daily basis.
Every night I am on the floor as a sommelier, I am interacting with the customers very frequently. I am trying to extract from a quick conversation what they are having to eat, what their preferred style of wine is, what they are comfortable with in terms of price and whether they want me to suggest something new or confirm that they have made a good selection. Some tables want to talk about wine a lot, some not at all. Really, it is all about providing the guests with the experience they are going to enjoy
What do you love most about your job?
The real fun is when I can open a bottle of wine for someone that changes his or her comfort zone. Maybe it's a bottle of Bordeaux for a guest that only drinks California Cabernet. Or a Grenache Gris from the Languedoc that tastes like Premier Cru white Burgundy. Or a glass of Counoise for a Syrah lover. I don't sell many "life-changing" bottles of wine, but what I do hope is that I can introduce you to a wine that will make your night better.
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