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Women Winemakers from France and Argentina Come to Rialto, Cambridge

Posted 04/28/2008 at 10:15 PM by Cathy

They were distinctive. They had lots of personality. Each had their own flavor. Each brought something unique to the table.

That describes the wines at Rialto's winemaker dinner tonight. It also describes the women who make them.

Rialto fêted four women winemakers at a special event tonight, and hearing them talk about their wines was like hearing a purpose statement of their lives.

For example: "I don't produce everyday wine," said Diane de Puymorin. "I produce wine for quality."

And: "I taste wine first thing in the morning without any food," said Carolina Furque, "and then I taste it again at the end of the day, with dinner, to see how it's evolved."

When wine is part of every moment of your day, as it is for these producers, you can start to imagine the wines as an extension of themselves. De Puymorin's 2007 Rosé, for example, is fresh and bright and more substantial than it first appears.

De Puymorin is the young, dynamic owner and winemaker of Domaine de la Petite Cassagne, part of the Costières de Nîmes AOC on the Rhône-Languedoc border. Rosé accounts for about one-quarter of all the wines coming out of this region, but de Puymorin is a red wine maker through and through.

"I always try to work on the mouth more than the nose of the wine," she said, and her rosé is one of those wines that would be perfect for a game of tasting and guessing different wines in dark-colored glasses. You're convinced you're drinking a red; it tastes "serious" that way, yet the limited-yield grapes were harvested early for optimal fruit and freshness.

It would only be the temperature of de Puymorin's wine that would give it away. That, and a certain energy on the palate that's young and confident and as far from a "by-product" rosé that it's possible to be.

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About the Author

Cathy Huyghe
Cathy Huyghe

Cathy Huyghe writes about drinking wine every day in the Boston area. She finds the quirky characters, the after-hours events, and the surprising stories that make up Boston's vibrant local wine scene. But no matter where she is, what she's doing, or who she's with, she mostly just wants to drink the stuff.

Her first restaurant gig was at Chez Panisse, when she knocked on the kitchen's back door and asked if she could work there. She's also worked for Jean-Pierre Vigato in Paris and Thomas Keller in Las Vegas. She went to graduate school at Harvard (twice), and her writing has run in Boston magazine, the Boston Globe, the Washington Post, Edible Boston, and on Nevada Public Radio and Grist.org.

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