Madeira, Mysterious Madeira

Posted 10/09/2008 at 11:02 AM by Laura

Cheese, yummy cheese

Most people don't get it and can't follow it but this wonderful oxidized wine, often a blend of several indigenous grapes, can taste like nectar.

Hailing from this small namesake island, this lovely honeyed amber wine is a result of the island's climate and a traditional process of fortification and heating, known as "estufagem". It's one of Portugal's older DO's (denomination or Origin) and quality standards are set by on oversight body, the IVBAM. `The labeling can seem complicated but it's actually quite straight-forward. Wines are either:

1. Made from a blend of grapes AND a blend of vintages

2. Made from a blend of grapes but only from a single vintage, which then is labeled on the bottle

3. Made from a single grape, such as Bual, Sercial, Verhelho, Malvasia or Malmsey, AND a single vintage, both labeled as such.

The word "Colheita" on the bottle is a give away that it's a "vintage" wine, rather than from a blend of vintages. So there you have it.

This tasting was held at The Carlton Club inside the Ritz Carlton, Chcago. There were only four tables , each with about 6-8 bottles to sample. A few of my favorites, with rich and round flavors of dried apricots, some honey, and a brown nuttiness, where: Justino's Madeira Fine Dry, Three Year (blend of grapes and vintages), imported by Broadbent Selections and the Vinhos Barbeito Bual 1982 (choice #3- single varietal, from a single vintage), imported by Rare Wine Co.    

The cheese, from manchego to blue, served with a bit of dried fruit and nutty dark bread, were the perfect complement. It was a heavenly tasting and I look forward to reproducing it at home. Most of the wines are reasonably priced, too, and since they are oxidized by nature, you can keep one open on your counter for some time without it going bad. It's something to explore or try after a nice meal as a night cap.

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