The Secret Life of Austrian Grapes

Posted 02/01/2008 at 01:01 PM by Derek

The Secret Life of Austrian Grapes, or How Do I Pronounce 'ß'?

It is a truism in the business that people sometimes order wine because they like the way a wine sounds. Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a prime example. Saying the exasperated “POP” at the end of “Chateauneuf …” seems to send a pleasing sensation to the brain. I’ve heard people saying Chateauneuf-du-Pape over and over like a mantra. It only follows that wines that are difficult to pronounce have a reduced hedonic value.

So where does that leave the grapes of Austria? Chief among the ranks of difficult to pronounce grape varietals, Austrian wines have risen from their scandalous past of “juicing” with diethylene glycol to sweeten their wines only to face a destiny of disapproval for their dysphonic discordance. It is bad enough that they stream together consonants that are unpaired in English, but the letters in the Germanic alphabet are also sometimes indecipherable. What is “ß” anyway?

The most widely grown Austrian grape varietal—Grüner Veltliner—sounds like a slow start of a creaky pull-chord lawnmower but is by no means alone in the pantheon of guttural growls: Blaufränkisch, Blauer Zweigelt, Zierfandler, Neuburger, and Weißer Burgunder all arouse aural contempt. Perhaps their ever-improving quality and growing regional typicity will overcome the “sound barrier” of wine buyers.

My new favorite pity case is Karl Alphart’s Rotgipfler Rodauner from Thermenregion in Austria. Rotgipfler is a late ripening, autochthonous grape varietal generally found along side Zierflander (sometimes-called Spätrot) in local blends. In the hands of Karl Alphart who makes a “Top Selektion” and a late harvested Rotgipfler as well, Rotgipfler is a breakout act. Thermenregion is located just south of Vienna and the vineyard of Rodauner is a mere 12ha (about 30 acres).

If it weren’t for the awkward pile of syllabic uncertainty that is Rotgipfler and its relative obscurity—even for Austria—it would be more popular than ever. Alphart’s Rotgipfler carries its weight like a plump but deft ballerina, full-bodied with tropical flavors and a very slight touch of sweetness balanced by generous acidity. It is a wine that pairs well with Asian-inspired dishes, curry and Indian spices. It reminds me of a Riesling that secretly dreams of being a Grand Cru Burgundy.

So give Rotgipfler a chance. Just pronounce it in your best faux German accent or consult this guide where you will, incidentally, also find the proper pronunciation of the German letter ß (“scharfes s” or sharp s). Please remember that local dialects and Austrian pronunciation may sometimes be slightly different than the original German but, for me, it is much easier to memorize the German pronunciation and adapt case by case for specific Austrian wines.

Auf wiedersehen.

Karl Alphart Rotgipfler Rodauner Thermenregion 2006 $22.99 (Domaine Select Wine Estates)

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