Under $21: Lazy Creek Vineyards 'Red Table Wine'

Posted 02/11/2008 at 10:49 AM by Derek

Why are almost all wines vintage, save boxed wines and a few special regions? Why not blend vintages for a consistent style as they do in Champagne, at least for table wines and everyday drinking wines where the vintage itself is less of an indication of its quality or value? Especially in California where vintage variation is sometimes ever so slight.

Enter Lazy Creek Vineyards’ “Red Table Wine” made in Mendocino County sub-region Anderson Valley with 100% Pinot Noir by Josh and Mary-Beth Chandler. It’s non-vintage and—gasp—under $21. (What consumers don’t know is that you can’t buy a quality Pinot Noir from California wholesale for under $21, let alone retail.)

Made from Lazy Creek’s younger vines and the vines of nearby producers, this “table wine” is translucent with a bright ruby glow; the nose is chopped fruit salad, some strawberry jam along with ripe, juicy berry fruit, sweet herbs and a touch of alcohol. The palate is medium weight with darker fruits but settles in to a very tart acidity. Think pomegranates and cranberries. I love diurnal shifts from hot to cool and the acidity they produce!

Where’s the new oak that backs so many Pinot producers? Who cares, I want to drink this with everything and new oak would just get in the way. Pair it with a turkey sandwich and chips or just enjoy a glass after work. This Pinot is as versatile as they come.

My only criticism is to bring the heat down. I’m not a low alcohol man but this one shows a little too much heat on the nose. It would be nice to lower it a click, 13.5% perhaps. Right now 14% is a touch boozy. Still this is a minor point.

I’m told that recent harvests have produced less fruit, so quantity is limited. That’s a shame because this is an everyday-drinker. I guess I’m not helping my own cause but buy a case if you can and keep it around the house. We need more wines like this and less $30-plus Pinots.

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