Under $21: Papantonis Agiorgitiko "Meden Agan" Peloponnese, Greece 2004

Posted 04/03/2008 at 08:08 AM by Derek

Greek wine is a minefield for the consumer. Even with the overall quality improving, and many stellar producers making world-class wines, your local wine shop has Greek wines next to Kosher and Georgian wines. All bought by the retailer based on price with no concern for quality. Grab the wrong wine and “Kaboom,” you’re drinking plonk.

But being price-conscious is not the issue. Being price-conscious is good. It’s when you buy a wine and the resultant tasting notes read—tomato water, awkward raisin-like sweetness, mud, more or less disgusting—that the value of a $15 bottle becomes suspect. That’s why it’s so gratifying to find a Greek wine that’s under $21 and delicious for any wine in the same price range.

Allow me to present Papantonis Winery’s Agiorgitiko “Meden Agan” 2004. It’s 100 percent Agiorgitiko (ah-yor-YEE-tee-ko), which is also known as “St. George” for those who get tongue twisted just looking at the name. Lower- to medium-bodied, the nose and palate show sweet tobacco, tart cherries, blueberries and cassia bark. Just a touch short on the finish, it’s still a very pleasant and versatile wine.

The name of the wine, “Meden Agan,” is from the ancient Greek written on the Oracle at Deplhi and means “Nothing in Excess.” That certainly quantifies this serene sipper. Consequently, it’s very often good advice.

The Papantonis winery is located in Nemea, along the northeastern Peloponnese. Nemea is the top region for the Agiorgitiko grape and a region one Greek importer called the “Napa” of Greece. Another corollary to the sun-soaked Napa Valley, Agiorgitiko is sometimes favorably compared to Merlot. There are both excellent value and luxury bottles from Nemea and we will definitely come across St. George again.

For now, grab a bottle of Papantonis Winery’s Agiorgitiko “Meden Agan” off the shelf and shop safer knowing this Greek wine has been declared plonk-free.

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