Just Back From Burgundy

Posted 03/24/2008 at 07:42 AM by Chris

I was in Burgundy for my fourth Grands Jours Bourgogne, a tasting in which nearly all of the appellations throughout the Cote D'Or venture out to show their current vintages and some wines of the upcoming release. In this case I tasted many of the 2006 wines and a few of just finished 2007's. The highlight by far for me was the lucky opportunity to visit Domaine de la Romanee Conti in Vosne Romanee. Good lord. It was like finding the golden ticket behind a label of Willie Wonka Wine that permitted me to meet Mr. Wonka himself for a trip behind the scenes of the World's Greatest and Most Ellusive wine label of all time. Previously, I was one of the many pilgrims who had visited Burgundy with vineyard maps in hand, looking to stare at the vines at the crossroads of the most hallowed vineyard land in the world at Romanee Conti, La Tache, and La Romanee. Since my first visit in 1996, I have photographed myself here many times at the Rue de Grands Cru with the cross of La Romanee at my back. I had followed that visit down the road to find the red iron gates locked at the Domaine, with dreams of ringing the bell and hearing that space was available for me to visit and taste. Ahh, but just a dream. This time however, I had the anticipation of knowing that the next day I would actually be able to make it behind that iron gate.

On the day of my visit, I could barely find the address as my ride, a car of 5 other guys who were not able to get an appointment, grew quietly irritated that they could not go with me. They dropped me at the bus stop in the town center where the village map hung and thus departed. I was able to make my way to those infamous iron gates, and with a great swelling of pride, I pressed the bell once. Bonjour! Bonjour, I said in unmistakeable American inflection. Chris Blanchard for a 10:00 appointment please. And then . . . the buzzer! I was in! "Bernard will be right with you for the tasting", a man said. I waited in the office surrounded by bottles of 20 year old La Tache, Romanee Conti, etc. Now, I am certainly a trustworthy guy who may have stole a pack of gum when I was 5, but, yes, I did have daydreams of locking the door and opening those wines and drinking as much as I could. Yeah, no class. A kid in a candy store. So what. I settled for a picture in front of the bottles. Not bad.

The Lurch-like, gentle giant, Bernard, led us through the village and into the barrel cellar where some of the most valuable liquid on earth lay slumbering in their oak beds. That first taste of the 2006 Echezeaux in barrel was fantastic, but no light turned on and no angles sang. I was wondering if I had grown immune. Bernard drew up the wine in his pipette from a barrel marked Richebourg. I could smell the aromas before I raised my glass. Indescribable. This is it! Something akin to the moment you sink in to a hot bathtub. Inner happiness and comfort. Texture is all you think about, like a warm blanket from the dryer on freshly washed crisp white sheets. Delicate ripe aromas. You search to write down descriptors, but your mind won't allow you to detract from the hedonism. This is why I do what I do. This is why I work long hours, attending tastings, studying for the Master Sommelier exam, and sit in a plane and then a car for hours finding my way to this one spot on earth. All for one brief moment like this.

He mentioned for me to return the untasted portion back into the barrel. Uh-Uh. Shaking my head like J-Lo. Im drinking this one. Another American. The Richebourg was followed by the equally impressive La Tache and finally the Romanee Conti. Perhaps the best wine I have ever tasted from barrel.

Bernard led us back to the Domaine for the legendary "blind tasting" in the bottle cellar. Surprisingly, the owner of the Domaine, Aubert de Villaine accompanied us to the tasting. The first bottle opened looked newer, as he asked for guesses to the vineyard and vintage. 2005 La Tache I guessed. 2005 Grands Echezeaux it was. The next bottle was older. 1988 Grands Echezeaux. Finishing with a masterpiece of 1996 Batard Montrachet, which I had never even seen before or knew they made. Aubert thanked me for the visit, the gates opened, and off into the misty village I walked feeling somewhat surreal. I waited at the bus stop and my friends arrived. "How was it", they asked. Trying not to smile too wide, I said "pretty good".

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